Latin (tem-pu̇s-ˈfü-git): Time Flies
Winter cycling no longer weird in Winterpeg – Winnipeg Free Press
Two decades later, Winnipeg winters remain almost just as frigid. Yet, seeing Winnipeggers bike to work in February is no longer any weirder than watching a lineup of cars snake out of a Tim Hortons drive-thru.
So the day after flying back from our Maui vacation, I’m out at The Forks doing a 16km bike race, Icebike 13. Fortunatly, it’s the warmest For an Icebike ever at -4°C. There has not been an Icebike for a couple of years and I was really pleased to see it come back this year. Participants were sporting all manner of bikes from high end road, cross and mountain bikes to some low-end bikes, like the 30+ year old steel commuter bike I road. While a nice light bike might be an asset, especially dragging it up some of the cross-style sections of the course, I think it’s more about the rider. Besides, I didn’t have time to switch over the studded tires to the Specialized Rockhopper, and I really wanted those tires. The tires really paid off as this year there was quite a bit of “ice” in the Icebike course, and while others were slipping and sliding, I was riding hard and confident.
I think this year was my best race result as well. I’d heard that 58 riders registered, the results list 49, 2 DNFs and I placed 26th! Not bad in my estimation. Too bad they don’t rank by age categories. I think that would have moved me way up in the standings. 😉
It’s our last day in Maui, where has the time gone? We’re up fairly early and gathering up all our gear from all over the condo and trying to get it to go back into the suitcases. Breakfast is an attempt at eating everything that’s accumulated in the fridge, there will be leftovers. Then at 9am we have an appointment for our “free” 8×10 photo from the onsite photographer. An hour later we’re the proud owners of over a hundred pictures of “us”, and I was the one who caved and bought the full package! Shirley just looked so good, I couldn’t resist.
Once we’re all packed and checked out we head back to Maalaea Bay to do a little shopping (Shirley) and a little harbour exploring (me).
Afterwards we return to the resort to hang out on the beach.
We clean up and get ready for our last night’s big event, the Drums of Paradise Lu’au. The dinner and show was great, well the dinner was not so good for Shirley as the gluten-free option was pretty basic, the buffet for me was quite excellent.
Back to the condo to pick up the bags, across island to the airport and we’re on the overnight flight to Vancouver and on to our Winnipeg home base.
Great day, great trip, lots of super memories.
Today the plan is to do some snorkelling and explore the West Maui loop by car. After breakfast we get all our gear together and headed off to Napili Bay. It’s still fairly early in the day, but parking is at a premium at this popular spot. We score a place fairly close to the beach and walk over to one end where there is a promising looking area for snorkelling.
We stake out spot near this Castle builder, and snorkel along the shoreline behind him out to a point, and around the corner a bit. Lots of great fish and coral. Where is that underwater camera anyway?
We wrap up the snorkelling and head of on the Kahekili Hwy to explore the rugged West Maui coast line. Within minutes, we’re in a very rural area following the coast line which is now mainly steep cliffs with some pretty impressive wave action on the shore.
We stop at several totally unmarked locations, except for a tip in the guide book, and walk a few minutes to see some spectacular shoreline formations. It looks like you could hike for days along the shore on a network of informal looking trails. I find the lava formations along the shore fascinating and left to my own devices probably would have spent he whole day hiking around the ocean’s edge exploring all the pools and taking more that the 400+ pictures I ended up taking today.
This sideways blow hole for instance! It’s about 30-40′ high and when the waves hit the shore just right it forces the water up a tube in the lava squirting it skyward in quite a spectacular fashion.
But there is more to see, so I pry myself away from this location and we drive on. the road gets narrower and rougher as we progress and then we’re climbing up to a high point for this view, and stop here to get a fruit smoothy from quite a colourful roadside vendor. Next stop is the Kaukini Gallery an impressive art gallery for such a seemingly remote area. We purchase a couple of items to remember the trip by and push on.
A few more miles down the road we come across this road side attractions. While Manitoba has it’s share of larger that life roadside attractions and other assorted oddities, it seems that Maui is not immune to this phenomenon either. Although in this case, it seems like life size is possible and it’s quite beautiful
After completing the loop, we’re back in Kehei to pick up some dinner from our gluten free restaurant discovery and hustle across the road to catch our 1st Maui sunset since we’ve arrived. A picture postcard end to a great day.
Another 30 minutes and we’re back at the condo enjoying dinner. Pictures of the day.
Today we’re driving the famous Road to Hana. In hindsight to really do this justice, we should have planned to say a day or two in Hana instead of just driving there and returning to the condo in one day, perhaps next time.
We start of by crossing the middle of the island and stoping in at our old friend Paia, or more correctly the near by Ho’okipa Beach Park to watch some surfers and check up the wave action. From there it’s a leisurely drive along the Hana Highway and we’re taking in the sights as we move through farm land towards the rain forest. First major stop is to check out the Rainbow Eucalyptus trees. We might have driven right by, but there were quite a number f cars stopped so we did too and then we noticed what all the excitement was about.
Next up is a short 1/4 mile hike through the rain forrest, and yes it’s raining, and the whole area is quite damp. The road is starting to live up to it’s billing as it narrows and gets even more twisty. All the bridges, of which there are many, are one car wide and you need to negotiate who will cross 1st if you meet some oncoming traffic.
Now the road is closer to the coast line and we’re enjoying the view from Kaumahina State Wayside park, and a short distance later Honomanu Park where a solo surfer is working the waves.
Speaking of waves, we detour off the highway and out onto Ke’anae Peninsula for some spectacular shore line and pounding surf. The Ke’anae Peninsula is a dramatic half-mile long finger of newer lava sticking out from the cliff line of the Hana Highway where there is a historic old Hawaiian village. After taking a lot of photos, we stop at the snack shack for smoothies, banana bread, and coconut candy, all locally produced.
One of the best side trips of the day is when we head down the Nahiku Road to a park which overlooks the Kipakaon and Honolulu Nui Bays. It’s several miles off the Hana Highway and just as we’re getting close to the park there road is blocked off with a traffic cone and a truck is doing some sort of work on the road. The two cars in front of us turn around and head back. I think about it for a bit and turn around as well, but then I reconsider. There is no sign saying the road is closed, and I turn back just in time to see a car coming out from behind where the road work activity is happening. That’s it, we’re going in. As we edge around this truck a guy is cutting some branches that are overhanging the road, and the road is totally passable. A short distance later we arrive at this beautiful park, and have the whole area to ourselves. The park has a short easy to remember and pronounce name, “Malama keia Aino o Nahiku”
From there we drive on without too many stops until we get to Hana. As I said earlier, we really didn’t give the Hana areas it’s due. By now it’s about 4pm and we’re interested in getting a little further down the road to see the Seven Pools and a couple of the bigger waterfalls before the sun goes down. We drive through downtown Hana and out onto the pier for a quick look at the Hana Beach Park, and then we off, heading down the road.
Next stop is the Haleakala National Park, not up on the crater, but down at the ocean shore where the Palikea Stream flows off the mountain forming the Seven Pools. Apparently, there are more but for the tourist it’s seven. We hike over to a couple of the lower pools and take a refreshing dip. I even swim over to one end of the pool and go under the waterfall, very cool, literally and figuratively.
Now it’s about 6 p.m. and the sun is about to go down. I’d been planning to head back the way we came, but overhear a conversation in the parking lot where a local says the road ahead, which the car rental company and severe tourist magazines say is quite rough and almost impassible, is actually pretty OK and we won’t have any trouble, not to mention its shorter that going back the way we came. I’d really wanted to drive that part of the road and that’s all the encouragement I needed, and we forge ahead for a real adventure.
Sure enough, the farther we head down the highway, the narrower and twistier it gets. It also goes from fairly nice asphalt to crummy asphalt, to gravel, and then dirt and then dirt with some pretty big pothole, but no worse that many Winnipeg streets. By now it’s dark, very dark. After winding along the coast line we head up higher on the mountain and are soon rewarded with a spectacular view from up high of the Kihei beach areas light up like Christmas along the shoreline.
We finish our drive by picking up some dinner and heading home to the condo and another full and rich day is done, good night Maui.
Today is the day to ride up Haleakala, all 10,023 vertical feet from the ocean to the top of the crater.
The plan was to drive over to Paia and get underway by 7a.m. but the days are full and we’ve slept in a bit and then of course getting all the gear together, having breakfast etc. takes a little longer that expected. From the condo, the weather isn’t exactly great either, it’s raining. But, with the bike rented I’m committed so we set out for the close to 1 hour drive over to the stating point.
On the way we see numerous rainbows. In fact on the vacation we see one or more rainbows every day. it’s surprising how much rain we’re getting but it usually doesn’t last long or you drive a few miles and you’re back in the sunshine.
It’s still early when we arrive in Paia so there is lots of street and free parking still available. Shirley will spend the day investigating the many shops in town and relaxing on the miles of beaches. I unload the bike and gear up for the start.
As I leave the parking lot Shirley has already explained to some other tourists what I’m up to and I can hear them shouting “Go Garry, you can do it!” as I roll onto the street at 8:30 a.m..
The first few miles are exciting as I get used to the new bike, adjust to the roads and begin to figure out the gearing and what kind of pace I’m going to hold. It’s tempting to go hard early on with the excitement of the challenge ahead, but I’ve had some first hand advice about pacing and there is a long way to go. Already I’m taking note of the constant climbing.
From Paia it’s up Baldwin Ave. to Makawao and the first of many challenges on the ride. Just as you leave the town, there is a straight climb that jumps to a 10.4% grade for 0.4km (according to Strava). Now for a prairie rider this is a bit of a hill and while it only takes me just under 2 minutes, I’m out of the saddle and the heart is pounding by the time I crest the hill. A little easy peddling for a while on a more manageable grade and I’m good to go again.
The next interesting point of the ride is a corner that everyone warns you about. Miss the turn and you can do 1,700′ of needless climbing to a dead end. In fact when we drove up on Saturday to check out the route we missed this turn even though we knew what to look for and more or less where is was. This is not to be repeated today for sure. Just to document the location, my first stop of many on the ride is to capture a few photos at 9:24 am.
With “the turn” successfully negotiated, it’s onward and upward, ever upward, just more and more up.
I’m still feeling quite good and enjoying looking around taking in the beautiful scenery of the uplands farming and ranching areas. At 9:44 I’ve arrived at 2500′ vertical, just a little over one hour of riding. So far, it’s just been me and a few cars, I’ve not seen any other cyclists. The road quality is good and I think I’m beginning to stabilize my pace and efforts with a heart rate holding fairly steady at 163 BPM.
Over the next few miles I see a couple of other riders going up including a couple in matching kits that I chat with for a bit. At one point a rider passes me and we greet each other briefly, and then I begin to think “I can keep pace with that guy.”. He seems to be just slightly faster that my current speed. Then I remember the advice to ride a your own pace and I suppress the competitive urge to get on his wheel. Turns out this was a really good idea. A short while later I see the same guy coming down and realize he was not going all the way to the top and could afford to expend more energy on that section of the climb.
The next stop is at about 10:18 and I snap the directional sign to the national park. While I’m stopped, the matching kit couple that I passed a while back pass me. We’ll leap-frog each other for the next few miles.
Did I mention the unrelenting nature of the climb yet? It’s really starting to test my psychological resolve. Around every corner, there is just more “up”. I think over the whole climb there are only three very brief sections, each a few hundred feet, that are flat.
The stops are getting closer and closer together. It’s not 10:42 and the legs are saying “We need a rest!”. At this corner there is a Lavender Garden display also some zipline, ATV and horseback riding services.
While I’m resting a bit the BMC rider hammers by at quite a pace. I don’t see him again.
On the road outside the National Park somebody has nicely painted some signs on the road surface. Here I am at the half way point at 11:12am. In addition to elevation markers every 500′ vertical, there are encouraging reminders like “Breathe” and “Feed”. I have no problem with the breathe advice and at this point “feed” is just something I know I need to do, the desire to eat left some time ago, but I continue to force down some Power Bars.
Somewhere after 5,000′ things begin to get really tough. I’m feeling tired and I’m starting to wonder if I can really keep this up and get all the way to the top. The stops are becoming increasingly closer together and I’m starting to think about how I can explain to everyone who knows I’m doing this why I didn’t make it. The explaining seems more difficult that carrying on, so I just keep turning this cranks and setting short-term goals. In my head I’m telling myself “Keep going to that next corner”, “Another 10 minutes”, “to that sign over there”, and slowly progress is being made.
Stopped again at 11:41, good excuse to take a few more photos, which don’t do the elevation, grade or switchbacks any justice at all. This is one crazy road!. While I’m at and climbing through the cloud level, it’s not on the road and I’ve enjoyed sunshine the whole way. The temperatures have dropped significantly at this point. The refreshing coolness is nice, but the work of the climb is keeping me plenty warm with just a short sleeve jersey and shorts.
It’s 11:55 and the legs are screaming. It’s only been 14 minutes since the last stop. This section is really difficult for me, I’m tired, losing motivation but still pressing on.
Somewhere over the next few miles I get a second wind, and the riding is getting easier. I stop on one corner under some trees for a brief rest only to find that the Park entrance was literally around the corner, where I need to stop again to show my park pass. The entrance is at about 7,000′ and I’m finding that the roads inside that park are easier to ride. There is still a good grade going up, but it seems to be more consistent where as the road outside the park had a more variable grade making for short hard sections. Either that or the altitude and exhaustion factors are kicking in and I’m hallucinating. Either way I’m feeling good and push on to 8,000′ without stopping.
It’s 1:13pm and the confidence has returned, I’m going all the way to the top, and there is no stopping me now. Strangely, the riding is actually easier at this point, but there is a known hard section ahead, but no worries for now! After a good solid push, the frequent stops are returning.
OK, I’m going to start blaming all these stops on the altitude. I’m at about 8,700′ and this stop at 1:48pm is only 14 minutes from the last one! I am going to make it all the way, right?
Wow, an amazing push for 13 minutes before another stop at 2:01 pm, time for more photos.
Another short-haul and the top is visible at 2:25pm! The visitor center on the left, the summit in the centre and Science City on the right. The end is near! Notice that the road conditions have deteriorated at this elevation.
At short while later I’m at the corner that make the final turn from the visitor area to the summit. I should have stopped there for a photo, but I was feeling good and excited about the push to the top so I just motored around the corner and began what is probably the steepest section of the climb. I’ll learn later via Strava, that this segment is referred to as “The Last Brutal Effort”, and brutal it is. Despite being so close to the top, I’m forced to stop two times in this section. Getting re-started on this grade and being so tired is a challenge in itself. Then at 2:30pm, 6 hours after leaving Paia I ride across the last parking lot, up the path and top out at the summit!
At the top I met a guy from Calgary who encouraged me up the last section and took those last two photos. It felt awesome to make it to the top and I actually did a fist pump coming up the path at the end of the parking lot.
It was about 80°F at the bottom and at the summit 50°F, the predicted 30° cooler. For the ride down I’d been warned about this temperature shift. Going up and working hard in 50°F was no problem, but coasting down at up to 84km/hr was going to be a little cool, in more ways that one! After putting on leg warmers, a second long sleeve jersey, and a jacket, I’m ready for the decent, let the speed begin! BTW, no more pictures from this point on, no need to stop and having too much fun!
The first 3,000′ vertical feet literally flew by and seemingly all of a sudden I’m at the Park entrance, what a rush! The brakes really got a workout on the hairpin turns and more that a few times the rims heated up so much as to cause some brake chatter. I didn’t touch them but suspect they were smokin’ hot at some points. I’m using the full lane on the way down and at some points I’m closing up on some cars and need to back off. I’m being careful to stay on my side so as not to make a sudden discovery of a car coning up around a blind corner.
Coming up I should have taken better note of intersection where 377 joins Hanamu Road. As I get close to the turn I make a split second decision and end up turning too soon onto Kealaloa Ave. Shortly, I realize I’m going the wrong way and I’m a bit lost. To correct this mistake would mean more climbing, which at this point is out of the question. Without a map or GPS, it’s line of sight navigation. I can see the ocean and it should be all down hill so all further navigation choices are influenced by “going down” and “towards the ocean”. This results in me getting on Hwy 37, the Haleakala Highway, a very long, very straight decent. I think this is where Strava indicates I hit 84.4 km/hr! I think this might be a little fast, or at the very lease a brief spike, for sure there were some good runs at 60+ km/hr. All the speed your nerves can handle. In the end this works out, but adds somewhere between 6-8 extra miles to the ride, including 4 miles on the flat in the rain back to Paia.
It was an awesome day, a great personal accomplishment, and the climb can be summarized in one word, unrelenting.
From the Strava analysis (click on picture for full size):
Today is our really big adventure day for both of us, it’s the first time in a helicopter!
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Our ride is at 11:30 so we’re around the condo for a while having lazy breakfast and then it’s a 1 hour drive over to Blue Hawaiian Helicopters. After we get checked in, weighed it and watch a safety briefing we’re good to go. We’re signed up for the complete island tour so it will be about one hour in the air and we’ll circle the entire island of Maui.
There are six of us, plus the pilot and seating is controlled by weight so we’re loaded up in a very specify assigned seating basis. Shirley has the window, so she’ll have to endure me leaning over to take some of the photos. In a funny ironic sort of way the one lady who was really nervous about the flight is up front and centre, right next to the pilot.
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Much to my surprise the flight is extremely smooth and the one time there was little turbulence our pilot Glenda made some course corrections to get us back into some smooth air. Takeoff is a little eerie as you just float up and away and the next thing we know we’re over the harbour looking at kite boarders and a cruise ship.
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I’d expected that we’d be buzzing by all the big hotels and popular beach areas but there is something they really don’t tell you about up front. Due to the noise of the helicopter they are restricted from flying over, or too close to lot of stuff, which means no beach & hotel fly bys and surprisingly, even over the Haleakala crater they can’t fly over it, just around the outside.
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We fly around the West Maui Mountain over the ocean and see some fabulous coastline and then inland as we go by Kaanapali and Lahaina. All the while we’re on Bose noise cancelling headphones with an intercom to the pilot, Glenda. She gives us an excellent guided tour of what we’re seeing and is exceptionally knowledgeable about the island and answers a couple of off script questions with amazing details.
A good portion of the tour is the Haleakala National Park, the crater and then into the rainforest area of east Maui. I get some great shots of the twisty road up to the summit and some of the numerous waterfalls.
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Past the park and we’re over Hana and then the magnificent north east shores of the island. There are few if any beaches in this part of the island, just magnificent rugged cliffs and pounding waves. Glenda makes special note of this little island as it was used in the opening shots of Jurassic Park. Apparently they did a low angle helicopter shot and avoided showing the near by road and houses to make it seem like it was in the middle of nowhere.
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Did I mention how smooth the flight was? It feels like your just flating and practically standing still but we doing about 100 miles per hour. I was kind of hoping for some radical moves, the kind that makes your stomach drop, maybe a bit like this.
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In reality, the most radical move was a nice banked 360° turn so that folks on both side of the helicopter could get a good shot of one of the waterfalls.
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Some more rugged coast line, some rural areas and we’re returning to the civilization of the airport.
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We arrive very slow and smooth, negotiating around some building, other helicopters on the ground and right into our landing circle, where did the hour go?
As we’re unloading another helicopter comes in for a landing, obviously not a tour ‘copter, and he’s flying more like a jet jockey as he blasts directly onto his landing spot.
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Was it worth it? Definitely!
Nothing too exciting for the rest of the day as we head off for some lunch and then some window shopping and back to the condo. A stroll along the beach, a pizza dinner and another full and rich day is done.
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All the other pictures from the day over on Flickr:
A lazy start to the day and breakfast at the on site restaurant , The Beach Club, gets us on the road just before noon. We’re going right past the Costco so we swing in that way for gas and unbelievably more shopping. Gas is certainly a deal at almost 25 cents below the typical gas station. However, the Saturday traffic in the area is a zoo. This little stop costs us close to 1 hr in a traffic jam.
Once free of congestion we roll over to Paia and check out a beach noted for boogie boarding and body surfing. The wind is strong and sand is blowing everywhere. This will likely be the starting point for the ride on Monday.
As we head up towards the summit there is one particular turn that we’ve been warned not to miss, but sure enough I blow right through the turn but quickly realize the mistake and turn around. In the car this is no big deal, on the bike it adds up to an additional 1,700′ of climbing to a dead end.
Sure enough the road is an unrelenting “up”. I note only 3 short flat sections. We see about 5 riders going up, two couples and a solo rider in a lime green jacket. I knew about the distance, the grade, the switchbacks, the narrow road in places, the 30°F temperature drop by the time you get to the top, but nobody mentioned the wind! It’s howling today and we have to brace ourselves just to walk around. At one point we spot mister lime green walking his ride. Initially I thought he was tired but later figured out that he was having trouble staying on the bike and on the road in an open section. We later saw him successfully grinding his way up to the summit. I hope it’s less windy when I ride on Monday.
As we’re driving up the scenery goes from uplands cattle grazing ranch country,
to sparse plant growth above the tree line,
and then just volcanic rock.
At Leleiwi, the first of two overlooks, we get our first glimpse of the crater. You have to hike a short distance on a trail and the wind is howling and the temperatures have dropped substantially from the 78F on the beach. Shirley returns to the car and I push on to get a look and take some pictures. I’m rewarded with a spectacular view of the crater and need to hide behind the shelter just to manage to hold steady enough to that the pictures. I intentionally increase the shutter speed just to compensate for getting buffeted around by the wind.
Back in the car we continue up to the summit at Puu Ulaula Overlook (also known as Red Hill). It’s a windy walk up to the shelter but really everybody gets their picture taken under the summit sign.
At the summit you are right next to the Haleakala Obsevatory also known as Science City. Because of the US Airfoce presence here we, not alowed to go over and explore that area.
On the way down we stop at the Visitor Center, just below the summit. It’s already closed at 2pm, (they have really short hours) so we don’t get to see the exhibits, but take quick look around and of course some more photos of the crater.
Further down the road we stop again, this time at the Kalahaku Overlook and get yet another spectacular look at the crater and surrounding areas from a different vantage point.
We wind our way down the Crater Road and take a slightly different route back hoping over to Kula and then back over to Makawao where we stop to take a few pictures of this beautiful church we spotted earlier in the day.
The Makawao Union Church was built in 1916 in memorial of Henry Perrine Baldwin and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Mr. Baldwin must have been quite the force back in the day, a lot of stuff is named after him.
After checking out a couple of dinner options in Paia we decide to find a new guten-free restaurant over in Kihei which is about 45 minutes away. After picking up fish & chips we head back to the condo, another 45 minutes, and enjoy dinner and a movie. Lots exploring, lots of interesting stuff, lots of driving and we’re done for the day.
More Pictures of the Day
Up early again at about 4:45am to get ready ad drive over to the Maalaea Harbour to catch the snorkelling adventure at 6:15am. The 1st part of the adventure was the boat ride to the first site. It was windy and rough and our course had us cutting through the wave trough going sort of with the wind. Within minutes everybody was soaked from the spray breaking over the deck. I was quite glad to be wrapped up in my black jacket I use for cycle commuting. Even with nice temperatures being wet and out in a strong wind had folks huddling under their beach towels.
Unfortunately, due to the wind we didn’t get to go to Molokini or Turtle Town, which was the hype of the advertising (small print, subject to weather conditions, destinations at the captains discretion) . They did their best and went to a couple of sites that were a bit sheltered from the wind. The snorkelling was fun and we saw lots of fish, green sea turtles, a manta ray, and four reef sharks. One of the stops was over a wreck in about 90′ of water. Most of the passengers hopped in to float over the wreck to get a better look. 
The last stop was at an old pier where several 100′ of concrete and steel were taken out by a storm and the sunken remains have become a man made coral reef. Back on the boat for a BBQ lunch and we’re heading back to the harbour Six hours and a sunburn later we’re back in harbour and have a look around at the shops. This location is also home to the Maui Ocean Centre Aquarium which only contains native Hawaiian marine life. The Centre was very well done and quite impressive After the snorkelling and seeing quite a variety of fish were were able to put some names to faces.
Then a drive around Kihei for some casual sight seeing and a stroll on a beach and we’re “done” for the day. On the drive back to the condo we pick up some takeout from Outback and settle in for a relaxing evening. Later a dip in the ocean and/or pool before calling it a day. Tomorrow is a lazier day with a sleep in and brunch at the Beach Club and then a drive up Halalekala to check out the bike route. The 3am start to see the sunrise has been canceled due to the need to dial it back a notch or two and relax a bit more.